The Butt of Lewis

Today (Monday) we travelled to the North of the Island of Lewis and explored the moors, the beaches, the ports and the lighthouse.

Our route was like this:

While the journey was only a round trip of 85 miles we took from 8.30am until 3.30pm to do it given the number of stops and photo opportunities on the way.

Petrol and Food

Given the absence of open petrol stations on the island on a Sunday our first visit today was to the Manor Filling Station in Stornoway. We also needed some additional items for the house, including dinner for tonight, so we also visited Tesco in Stornoway. 

The route to Stornoway is really attractive, 4 miles along single track roads until the last 2.5 miles when there is two way traffic on the A849. 

Heading North on the Island

Those tasks finished it was time to head to the North of the Island. We left Stornoway on the A847 heading west. 

At Barvas we get to choose to go along the coast in either a South or a Northern route. We choose the North and travelled through Baile an Truiseil, where we left the main road and followed the B road to the sea. 

Next we came to tourist sign for Steinacleit Cairn and Stone Circle. We turned off and followed the road to a Loch with an ancient Dun in its centre. Dun's abound in this part of Scotland anywhere a fort or large roundhouse was built was called a Dun, and the Gaelic word and its Welsh equivalent Din has had influence on many place names - The welsh for City Dinas, is dirived for it. 

The Dun was interesting as, by being in the centre of the loch it provided both security and fresh water, critical for success in an era of turmoil and change. The island can be seen near the centre of the very choppy loch.

One of the things that is very clear about these islands is how many small lochs there are. Apparently this is caused by the scouring of of the land by glaciers in the ice age. Leaving many low areas filled with water, as well as the more fjord type lochs nearer the sea which are also caused by glaciers causing flooded valleys but in that instance doing so with sea not fresh water.

After looking at the Dun and the Loch, we began to walk up to the Cairn but after 10 yards the path turned from being a path to being a bog or a river. The idea of sinking into peat not being attractive we didn't follow it any further.

The next place we came to was Borve (for clarity this is Borve, Isle of Lewis; not Borve, Isle of Harris that we visited on Saturday). Borve has a large community centre and associated museum, but it was not open today. Just beyond Borve is Melbost Borve, here there are the remains of a burial ground and the ruins of a tiny chapel and a well all dedicated to the great Irish saint, whose father was a Scot, St Brigid. When we think of the Vikings we often think of their impact in England (For example on Alfred of Wessex), but here in the Hebrides, the timelines seem longer, a flourishing Celtic culture including close links between these islands and the island of Ireland were in play long before the arrival of the first Norse men, so here it is the chapels (Teampull) and Duns which are old and the Norse foundations which come later.

Just as everyone is calling for slow food, as an antidote to fast food, so this is slow travel in response to the more speedy approach of last week and next. It is a nice change of pace, so having left the house at 8.30am it was 11am as we left Borve and we had only travlled 55 miles.

Nis or Ness

As we travelled further north we came into the Parish called Nis or Ness, depending on your preference for Gaelic or English. Like many Parishes in this area they are large spaces and include multiple small communities.

The first place we visited was Eoropie Beach, what an amazing place. A short distance from the side road was an enormous yellow sanded beach with lovely rollers breaking in. I hope the few photos here will give you a little flavour of the sites. 

The Butt of Lewis

The next place we visited was the most northerly point on the Island - The Butt of Lewis. The Lighthouse here is quite spectacular out in a wild and windy bluff above the sea. 

This headland is in the Guinness Book of Records for being the windiest place in the UK and it took some effort to stay grounded while taking photos of the place. I realise this is the furthest North I have ever been. Not having been to Scandinavia or Iceland (yet) this is further north than any of the places I've visited in Canada or Russia. So I note this to remember when I wonder where is the furthest point North I have been, I'll surely remember the name!

Port Nis

Going a little further South we come to the beautiful harbour of Port Nis. We decided to stop for lunch and we visited a small cafe above the harbour called Cafe Sonas, this serves some lovely fish dishes, but we were looking for more of a snack. 

Drew opted for a Cappuccino and a Hebridean Treacle and Apple Scone with Cream and Strawberry Jam, I had an Americano and, not being an eater of sweet food, had two nice apples we had bought earlier.  

We went down to the Port Nis Harbour and watched as the waves beat against the rocks. The battle between the sea and the man-made harbour seems to be one-sided with the sea clearly in the lead.

Returning South

After an hour or so watching the waves and the boats in the harbour we began the journey south. It is clear that my wish to avoid going back on ourselves en route, which I had planned for the holiday as a whole, is not an option here on Lewis. Where there are often only one road to anywhere. This was the case this afternoon.

We looked for a route that would take us down the east coast of the island back to Stornoway, but there wasn't one. We headed out hopefully on the Heritage Trail but after two miles the road became track and the track soon became bog. Trail in this instance was clearly a walkers term not a 'road trail' as it would mean in the US or Canada. I particularly liked reading the walking guide to this trail which says:

Appropriate footwear (flippers!) and navigation skills essential. 

I don't think they are kidding!!

We headed back for the main road, and retraced our steps back to Crossbost and our home. We arrived at 3.30 tired but pleased with our journey to the wild North.